Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Razorback Done!

Here's some pics of my Razorback! Fully magnetized, but I didn't paint any alternative parts. I can swap them out when the new edition comes out, if I feel like I need to.

The turret is from Forgeworld. The side doors and the front panel I got on Ebay but I believe are part of the GW Black Templars Upgrade kit.

I used Secret Weapon Miniatures Exhaust Black and Ash Grey pigments for weathering. It turned out.. ok. Nothing to write home about. I didn't really figure out how to use them properly, or subtly. Oh well.

Onto the pics, and thanks for looking!

Wednesday, April 26, 2017

3D Printed Thunder Hammers!

They're done and looking great!

I already wrote about how I designed these. In short, I think regular Thunder Hammers are a bit goofy. This looks hefty and fits the Black Templar theme much better.

Here's a few pics of what they might look like on a model.

As before, if you're interested in getting some of your own, you can get them on Shapeways. They're up for the same amount I paid, plus less than a cup of coffee. Hey, just above 20 bucks for a set of 12 is pretty good when it comes to bits. And if you'd like them tweaked a bit for your purpose, feel free to reach out to me on Shapeways.

And thanks for looking!

Sunday, April 16, 2017

Custom Black Templar Thunder Hammer Heads!

Why did I do this? Because I don't like the look of normal thunder hammers. Their heads are way too long and too spindly. Your mileage may vary, but they really don't work for my taste.

So I designed my own! The dimensions of the block are 8mm long, 4mm wide, and 5mm tall. That makes it have very similar profile to a normal thunder hammer, but it's not as elongated. It's also not as goofy and I hope that it will communicate heft really well.

The hole in the bottom is 1.25mm wide, matching the diameter of Privateer Press brass rods I like to use for pinning. They're thin enough to drill into the haft of an existing thunder hammer.

Here's my best attempt of a true-to-scale attempt at what the hammer should look like:

As before, I ordered these from Shapeways in frosted detail plastic. A set of 12 cost me just over $20 with shipping. That's not too bad. 12 is more than I'll ever use, including putting them on Termie characters.

And of course, credit where credit is due, here's the inspiration:

So much for now, thanks for taking a look!

Sunday, April 9, 2017

Truescale Termies Converted!

I've converted my Terminators a little bit!

Here's what I've done. I padded the front half of their thighs with Milliput, to make them look less like they've been missing out on leg day. Other Terminator truescale efforts did way more than this, but this seemed enough to me. Their legs, even like this, are bulkier than normal marine legs.

I extended their shins by 1mm using plasticard. I tried to do it differently this time compared to how I treated my Marine legs - I used plasticard that is wider than the outer rim of the leg, and after the plastic cement has set in, I'd cut it down to size. It didn't turn out that well because you could always tell that there was something done over there. I ended up covering those areas with milliput and sanding it down until it was smooth. I'll have to keep experimenting until I find the least painful way to do this.

Oh, and the back of their shins look completely misfigured. I did my best, but there's no easy way to reach those areas and make them look smooth. I don't have any pictures and I've already moved on as of writing this; I'll try to cover it up with paint as much as possible. Ugh.

I also extended their torsos by a whole 3mm. I used milliput to give them a stomach-area armor shape, some plasticard and guitar wire on the front to give them something that resembles abs, and finally used green stuff to cover up most of that mess with sashes.

To compensate, I lowered their shoulders by about 2mm. This means that their heads are slightly above the shoulder line. They look much more human this way, but still outsize space marines. All their hands are magnetized using a giant 6x1.5mm magnet in each arm, and an even larger 6.3mm magnet in each shoulder. This means that you can grab each model and lift it by its arm without anything moving. Pretty cool!

Some day I'll make them arms for thunder hammers and storm shields, hence the magnetization on all of them. I'm not sure what look will I prefer as of right now.

After that, I made them garments out of green stuff. I'm getting better than this, I did all of these in one short evening after work. I should take pictures next time and make that into a tutorial.

As for their heads, I experimented with various designs. Terminator heads, trimmed terminator heads that resemble Gray Knights (tutorial here), normal tactical marine helmets, my converted crusader helmets, as well as Forgeworld Templar Bretheren helmets. These looked the best to me: not medieval, but still knightly.

Anyway, here's some more pics. I'm really looking forward to painting these guys.

Thanks for looking!

Saturday, April 1, 2017

Tacticals Space Marines Done!

They're done!

This was a very fast paintjob. Well, relatively speaking; about 90 minutes per guy. And it shows from up close, but not from afar. They look great as a squad on the tabletop, and that's what I wanted to see with this army: drastically less time per model compared to my Necrons.

I took these pics indoors - sunny outside wasn't working out for these guys. I wanted them to look gloomy. I used a cloth math as the background and did more editing than before. The pics look extremely good. And I took them with my phone!

Now I'll stop blabbering. Thanks for looking!

Saturday, March 25, 2017

Sketching with Matt DiPietro!

Earlier this year I had the pleasure to attend a painting class with Matt DiPietro on painting using his sketching technique. And as it usually goes when you take lessons, I learned a whole lot more.

A short bio: Matt DiPietro was a studio painter for Privateer Press for years. I understand he went rogue somewhat recently, doing commission work and giving lectures. His work is amazing and you should go look at it. Really inspiring stuff. Here's a sample:

You can find his work and contact information on his personal website, putty and paintfacebook, and probably some other social media.

Now that I have you a good reason to go and look at someone else's way better work, I wonder why anybody would still be reading this. Well, let me summarize the sketching technique that he developed! Both busts I showed here were painted using this technique, at least in some part.

Do you know how TV works? As in, the antenna kind, not digital? Neither do I, but I think that colors were sent separately from luminosity on the frequency range. And that the luminosity information was more precise, or more detailed, than the color information. This made sense because we can tell shades of light and dark apart way easier than we can tell colors apart. Our ancestors developed color sensitivity very late in evolutionary terms. And it makes sense, telling colors apart is difficult and not so necessary, while telling light and dark apart is way easier and far more useful. So anyway, the TV would produce a crisp black and white image, and overlay it with colors fairly imprecisely. Our eyes wouldn't notice the difference.

The core idea behind sketching is kind of like that: you paint a model in gray-scale first, then glaze colors on top of it.

The first phase is the most important one because it lets you establish shadows, shapes, highlights, and the mood of the model using nothing but black and white paint. You blend them on the wet pallet, of course, for all intermediate tones. This phase goes extremely quickly because you don't have anything but shadows on your mind, and nothing by grays on your brush.

I really can't stress this enough; it's so much easier to paint using just two colors! You don't paint each detail one thing at a time, like you would if you used different colors for different bits; you just paint the whole figure at once. You can look at the figure as a whole while doing this and make large changes easily: darken the legs, lighten the shoulders, whatever you think would draw the eye the best.

Before I go onto the second phase, here's my sketch. Painting this took no time. We used white spray primer over a black model to establish the light source, then followed that up with brush work to deepen the darks and highlight the lights.

I hope you see what I was going for: a strong light coming from behind him, a bit to his right. I was imagining a soldier entering a pitch black corridor. I also painted his shadow on the base.

The second phase is the most important one because it brings the model to life. You use glazes, or highly thinned paint, to bring color in. I decided to green for no good reason, really. I've never painted anything green. I glazed the rifle some tan color, but left it off-white closer to the stock as I wanted the model to look like light is being reflected off it.

And that's it! This took a bit over an hour, and only because I was learning and trying things out. It's an extremely effective way to paint deep, dramatic models and communicate mood.

For the first time in my life, I was not thinking about painting a model by recipe, but by making my vision come to life, and doing what it takes to do that. Nothing more than that.

I learned a whole lot more during those lessons. A lot about color theory, composition, and mixing. I used P3 paints for the first time, and let's just say I'm still using them. After trying P3's Morrow White, I don't want to see a Citadel or Vallejo white paint ever again in my life. I also used some artist acrylic paints and even inks. I two-brush wet blended for the first time. I experimented with metallics and, again for the first time, painted a metallic model that I was happy with. I settled on my new Black Templars color scheme right there, after those experiments. I learned the value of a good light source, hence my pimped out painting desk.

Once I write a post about how I'm painting my Space Marines, I hope the effect this lesson has had on me will be plain to see. I'm looking at miniature painting differently now, and my approach to painting them is way different.

In short? A weekend well spent. Thank you Matt!

And thank you for reading.

Monday, March 13, 2017

Magnetizing Marine Weapons

First I want to apologize for the pics here. I took them over a month ago on the phone and didn't check the image quality. Things are a bit out of focus, but I don't have pictures any better than this.

For my first squad of Tacticals, I didn't really know what to assemble. Space Marines have way more options than Necrons. So magnetizing is an obvious way to go, however, while magnetizing Necrons I found that there's a limit to how much magnetization makes sense. Specifically, once there's a single way to grab the model, you've gone too far. If you grab the model wrong and his limbs start popping off, that's too much.

I eventually decided to give my Sergeant a combi-weapon (magnetized to all 4 options), and to magnetize one guy with all special weapons (again, all 4). I didn't include a Heavy weapon because I'm thinking I'd like my squads to move and shoot, and grav is a bit cheesy. I didn't have a grav gun anyway, and I can always one-off a Marine with a grav gun if I really want to spend some points on not being fun to play with.

So, here's how I magnetized the Sergeant's weapon:

Pretty straightforward and it works fine. I used 2mm x 1mm round magnets. The top sides of the weapon cannot slide sideways to the left hand side of the weapon, just the right; so I put the magnets at a slight offset to make the magnets pull the top edge in such a way to keep it stable.

The Special Weapons guy was a bit more work. Same magnets, but this time one pair for each arm:

Turns out that the 1mm thick magnet can fit in their palm without breaching the other side of the hand. The weapon rests very firm when put in, enough to lift the model by the weapon.

So much for now. I'm getting close to finishing the first ten, really looking forward to taking some nice pics and starting to work on a Rhino.


Sunday, March 5, 2017

Space Marine Bases!

After a lot of turmoil, I'm finally settled on a base theme:

These are Ruined Temple bases by Secret Weapon Miniatures. I also got some of their Flagstone bases to give them a shot, but the Ruined Temple ones look better in my opinion. Not as medieval, and the two color scheme is just the right amount of color. Colorful flagstone is too colorful, whereas a uniform stone color would look boring.

With that said! This color scheme took forever to develop and settle on. At one point I had all 10 bases painted but each one differently, as well as some flagstone bases too. And some of those were repaints after other failed attempts!

This is also the first time I did two brush blending. Look it up online, but it's a technique for making sure glazes blend smoothly into the surface as opposed to covering up perfectly. See the browns on some of the gray parts above? That's how I achieved that effect.

Here's the recipe I used:

  • Prime in black
  • A few coats of Eshin Grey, sides and bottom too, until the color is uniform.
  • Light drybrush in Greystone, all over.
  • Light drybrush in Fenrisian Grey, but spotty. Not uniform in intensity, and only apply it a little bit here or there.
  • Light drybrush in Ushabty Bone, also spotty. These two drybrushes are there to create "warm" and "cold" areas of the base.
  • For the parts that are going to be yellowish, wash them using Seraphim Sepia, not applying too much wash. When it dries, repeat a second time.
  • The rest, wash in Nuln Oil just once.
  • Go back and drybrush lightly using Fenrisian Grey and Ushabti Bone, applying some Ushabti bone over the yellow parts a bit stronger than before.
  • Here and there, apply blotches of Agrax Earthshade and immediately spread the wash around with a second, wet brush, until the bloch is a smooth brown gradient. Apply this as a glaze, not as a wash; you don't want it to pool anywhere. If it starts to pool, spread it around with the wet brush.
  • Do that one more time.
  • Light drybrush in Ulthuan Grey to bring out the greys, and a Ushabti Bone/White mix to highlight the yellows
  • Repaint the sides of the base in Eshin Grey to neaten it up.
I wrote this list for your benefit as much as mine, because I'm sure to forget by the time I get to painting another set.

Before I wrap this up, I'll attach some work in progress pics I was taking while experimenting. With that, thanks for looking!